Text & Photos from the Cascade Range
In late June and early July of 2006 three NYSection members were out west to climb some of the Cascade Range volcanoes. At 7 am on June 26, Vic Benes reached the summit of Mt. Hood (11,239') in perfect weather by the "Old Chute" route with guide Joey Thompson. Because of wind action on last winter's heavy snowfall, all the "usual" South Side routes were unusually steeper and smoother: hard neve up to 55 or 60 degrees, and large snow mushrooms clung to the ridge caps, waiting to be released by the warming sun. The bergschrund above the "hogback" was wide and deep, and extended quite far both left and right. The "Old Chute" was approached by descending into the crater and climbing a steepening snow slope diagonalling right.
On June 28, Vic picked up Joe Di Saverio in Portland, and they drove directly to the south side of Mt. Adams, camping at snowline at Cold Springs. From here Mt.Adams is easily done in one long day, but in order to spend time at altitude in preparation for Mt.Rainier, they established a high (8900') camp at the "Lunch Counter" on June 29. Low clouds obscured the route. There was a shower during the night, but in the morning they could see the "false summit" of Piker's Peak (11,657') looming above. A climb on steep snow at a constant angle put them on the windy false summit, with the true summit in the clouds to the south. After a short descent, followed by more steep snow, they reached the summit (12,276') at noon. The clouds had dissipated, and they could see Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Mt.St.Helens, and Mt. Rainier. A large portion of the descent was achieved by long, controlled sitz glissades in well-established runnels.
Joe and Vic then went to see Mt.St.Helens. Much of the area was closed because of gas discharges from the mountain, so all they got was the tourist views, plus a short hike down to look at Spirit Lake (see below.) Then it was on to Ashford WA, and two days of more acclimatization with hikes up toward Camp Muir on Mt.Rainier. During these days the upper part of Mt.Rainier was covered by a large lenticular cloud. On July 3, they met up with Bob and Diana Graziano, who had rented a cottage for a week. Bob had come to join Vic and Joe on a private guided ascent of Rainier.
On the AM of July 5, the trio met the guides, Kate Anderson and David Conlan, checked out gear and supplies, and on a hot sunny day moved slowly up to a camp at about 9000', near a spur east of Camp Muir. The next day they stopped at Muir for harnesses and helmets, roped up for the Cowlitz Glacier, and trekked over to Cathedral Gap, with its threatening rockfall, loose lava, and steep paths. Once on top it was an easy climb to the Ingraham Flats, a not really flat area flanked by the large crevasses of the lower Ingraham Glacier, and here they stopped for a second night, turning in early after due preparations. At 2 AM of July 7, they roped up and started up the final 3700'. First over the High Crack, down to the start of Disappointment Cleaver, then slowly up the main (west) part of the Cleaver, reaching the top (higher already than Mt.Adams) at sunrise. A brief sit on the pack, liquids, and a general check that all systems (read clients !) were GO, and it was on to the steep and crevassed upper slopes. One crevasse in particular required a step or jump of about 3 feet onto an upslope. Above, Vic Benes finally learned not to front point ! A final rest at High Break, around 13,000', and increasing excitement as they neared the edge of the top crater. Perfect day, super weather, congrats all around. After half an hour, it was time to think seriously about the mandatory safe descent. That achieved, there was beer and pizza all around, and the guides suggested that Vic come back in a few years and attempt an age record.
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