Ed February Visits The Gunks

From time to time, visiting foreign dignitaries come to New York looking to experience the famous overhangs of the Gunks. Such was the case a few weeks ago when we received word, via the Mellon Foundation, that Edmund C. February, a Professor of Botany at a South African University. who was lecturing that week at Princeton, hoped for the opportunity to do a little climbing in the Gunks and could we set him up with a partner. " Not THE Ed February, I said!" ( For Ed February is perhaps South Africa's most famous climber, featured in a recent Outside Magazine article by Greg Child and costarring in a film with Joe Simpson.) Yes indeed, it was. To the rescue came Bob Hall, one of our most skilled veteran Eastern climbers, with many classic routes in the Northeast to his credit, to show him a little New York Section hospitality.

For those not in the know, Ed February is a climbing legend in his country, not only for his bold first ascents but for breaking the apartheid barrier and opening rock climbing to his people in their native land. Like all acts of climbing hospitality like Bob's, it's difficult to say who had the better time, host or guest.

Thank you, Bob.

Phil Erard

Here follows Bob's narration of his memorable day with Ed.

From: "RBHall"
To: "'Philip Erard'"
Subject: RE: Gunks w Ed February Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 17:48:42 -0400

Phil,

When Ed finally called me on the phone Fri. about 4pm I had already made arraignments to climb with Steve Miller, so Steve & I met Ed, his semi-climbing wife and their host Bill Davidson at the Gunks parking lot at 8:30am Sat.

The weather was "swampy and steamy", and rain threatening, so we took off for Arrow. I consider this the #1 climb in the grade at the Gunks. "Old Ed" (NO !!!) admitted to being a "bit rusty" having been off the rock for 3 months with pneumonia. Nevertheless, he asked if he could lead the first pitch. So we handed him the rack and the sharp end and up he flew!

Roping up at the base of Arrow

It was ascertained that his wife, Nicky, would like this pitch so I climbed second tailing two ropes. Nicky tied on to one and was belayed by Ed (he appreciated that kind thought) while I brought up Steve. Looking up at the start of the slightly overhanging 2nd pitch of Arrow, it was ascertained that Nicky might not enjoy this, so she lowered off.

Ed felt like continuing the lead, so off (up) he went. I thought he would enjoy "finding" the crux 5.8 (some say 5.9 if you are short, which he is) at the top, so I said naught. The rope did pause there for a few "ups-and-downs" but he carried through "right properly."

Being on a roll, we "let" him lead Three Doves (5.9) He loved it ! Especially my tales of the still-resident pin on the 2nd pitch that protects what most consider the crux. I placed it on what was the 2nd or 3rd ascent back in the early 1970's.

A shower passed by wetting the rocks and it looked as if Ed would not get to do one of the "famous" Gunks Overhangs that he had heard so much about all the way "over there" in So. Africa. However, upon voicing this grave disappointment Steve and I looked at each other and had the same thought: the first 20' of Son-of-Easy-O would be too wet and slimy, but the huge overhanging buttress above the 1st pitch of Bonnie's Roof protects the first (crux) pitch. So off we went.

Bonnie's Roof: Roping up

Others had the same idea, but with only a short wait we got to send Ed on the climb. By this time I think he would have cried if either of us had asked for the lead, and we were perfectly happy to let him lead! He was REALLY enjoying himself. Naturally, he "cruised" the whole pitch. Steve got to follow: it was the first time Steve had been on the route since he took a 35-40 footer off the crux.

 

Bonnie's: Ed going up the corner

Bonnie's: Ed above the overhang

While Steve was cleaning the pitch Ed (who had lowered off) and I discussed the next options. His host was thinking "home", but the thought of doing a 5.6 that had been done in 1942 with hemp ropes and one pin put an end to that idea ! So off we went to High E. with the thunder growing in the background.

So I say..."Ed, thunder means rain in about a half an hour". Steve dropped out in the interest of a speedier ascent, and Ed and I set off with my new 70 meter rope. Ed leading, of course. The usual corner was total slime-city, and the alternate face was not much better. I guestimated this turned the normal 5.3 1st pitch into about 5.6. Ed led with care and I followed as fast as I could. Removing the 3 critically-placed 3 pieces of gear E had placed on the 170' pitch didn't slow me down, but by the time I got to the G.T. it looked like rain in 5 minutes.

The exposed last pitch of High E. is probably not the best place in the world in a thunderstorm, so we traversed the G.T. to the fixed anchors. By this time it was raining. I looked down to see what might have been a "cluster f--k" growing: draped on the tree 30' below was one climber with his partner on rappel trying to figure out whether the ropes would pull while standing on the tiny intermediate station which would be our next rap station. (ah,...usually you try to tell if the ropes would pull from the ground, where you will be pulling them,..oh well!) Meanwhile, the leader of another team was making for the same tree, and was crossing our rap line. Nevertheless, after a few deft communications all seemed to agree we could rappel, so we did. We did our two quick raps laughing and singing (well, that's what I try to call it, others have questioned the use of that particular noun to describe what comes out of my mouth) just as the skies really opened up.

I don't know how long it took the other parties to get off. I do believe, they probably were impressed with these "old fart Trad climbers"!

(TRIVIA QUESTION of the DAY: How do you tell an "old Fart Trad Climber from just a "regular Trad climber" ? ANSWER: "Regular Trad climbers seem to ONLY use cams, No NUTS ! )

When walking back on the carriage road, Ed passed by a group of youngsters trying a pretty hard boulder problem. Steve Miller noted that Ed looked like he would really like to "give it a go."

The "kids" couldn't have been a better representation of the youth of America today! They welcomed this "oldster" and cheered him on with the same enthusiasm that they had been giving their own! They had no idea who he was or where he came from. Ed made a really credible try, and then went up again using a totally different approach (a left heel hook), but to no avail. Nevertheless, it was a great effort, appreciated by all.

The five of us slithered into Emil's for a round of beer. Steve and I agreed that we would "go for" the 3 months of pneumonia if we could then climb like Ed.

We all had a wonderful time.

Ed is off for a month in Salt Lake City to finish up a paper he's collaborating on, and will try to do some climbing there.

His E-mail is now working (again). Phil, maybe you can e-mail him some beta on Salt Lake climbers who might want to climb with him. He's one great guy !

Bob